前回は『なめし』について書きましたが、今回は『仕上げ』についてです。
前回の『なめし』について
『なめし』の工程を終えると、次に『仕上げ』の作業となります。
この『仕上げ』の工程は、インテリア業界ではよくお化粧に例えられます。
つまり、もとの革が綺麗であればスッピンに近い状態でいけますが、傷が多く目立ったりする革であれば、お化粧を厚くして傷を隠すことが必要となってきます。
革の仕上げ方法は大まかにこのようなものがあります。
１．素仕上げ（ヌメ革）
タンニンなめしを施しただけの革に仕上げ剤をほとんど使用せず、ローラーなどで表面を磨く程度で仕上げたものです。
スッピンにもっとも近く、無着色・無塗装の革で、一番のナチュラルな革の質感を味わえる仕上げです。
時間が経つことにより、革に含まれるタンニン成分が酸化して、経年変化を楽しめます。
革の状態が綺麗でないとできない手法なので、価格も高くとても貴重です。
２．オイルレザー仕上げ
タンニンなめしを施す工程でオイルを染み込ませたものです。
オイルを染み込ませることによって、耐久性が増し、防水性に優れ、しっとりとした触り心地と表面の光沢が美しいのが特徴です。
３．アニリン仕上げ（染料仕上げ）
革を染料のみで染めて仕上げる方法です。
こちらもヌメ革と同様に傷がないものを使用し仕上げられますので、価格も高く貴重です。
４．セミアニリン革
革を染料で染めた後、顔料を塗ったものです。
表面の塗装で、耐久性に優れ、かつ、革の柔らかさも楽しむことができる仕上げです。
５．顔料仕上げ
革に顔料を塗ったものです。
顔料を厚ければ厚いほど、革本来の風合いが失われてしまいます。
その分色落ちや耐久性にとても優れております。
６．型押し
革の表面に熱処理を施した型を押し付け加工する方法です。
型押しをすることによって、傷がある革でも隠すことが可能です。
７．ヌバック
革の表面を削って起毛させたものです。
８．スエード
革の裏側をサンドペーパーなどで毛羽立てたものです。羊や子牛などが使用されます。
そのほかにも、ロウ引きや手もみ、エナメル革等あります。
革の仕上げ方によって質感や見た目が変わってきます。
革がどのなめし方でどういう仕上げで作られた革なのか知ることにより、今までより革の楽しみが増え愛着感がわくと思います。
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