ソファやチェアに使用されている『革』。
一口に『革』というと、本革や合成皮革、ソフトレザーなどのことを指しますが、今回は『本革』についてです。
そのとても身近にある『本革』ですが、普段しようしているものは『皮』ではなく『革』になっております。
どのようにして『革』になるのでしょうか。
『皮』と『革』
そもそも『皮』とは、動物から剥いだままの生の『皮』の状態をいいます。
その『皮』の毛を取り除いたり、さまざまな処理をし、靴やバックなどに商品にできるよう加工したものを『革』といいます。
この処理の中で『皮』から『革』にする工程で重要なものが『なめし』という作業です。
なめしとは
動物の皮は非常に丈夫ですが、そのまま使用すると腐敗したり、乾燥するととても硬くなり柔軟性がなくなります。
そこで、さまざまな薬品を使用したり、樹液を利用してその欠点を補う作業のことを『なめし』といいます。
なめしの種類
1.タンニンなめし
昔から行われていた方法で、植物の樹皮や木部、葉、果実等から抽出した渋(シブ)をなめし剤として用いり処理をします。濃度の違うタンニン槽に漬け込んでいくのでとても時間と手間がかかります。
タンニンなめしの良さは何といっても、経年変化を楽しめます。使い込むことによって、色や革の柔らかさが変化していきますので楽しむことができます。ただし、水(雨など)にとても弱いです。
2.クロムなめし
クロムは塩基性硫酸クロム塩という化学薬品です。タンニンなめしと比べ時間と手間がかからない手法です。クロム液を入れて強制的に革に叩き込む方法を取ります。
タンニンなめしより作業時間が短くなるため、現在流通されているものの大体がこのクロムなめしとなります。
3.コンビネーションなめし
タンニンなめしとクロムなめしを併用する方法です。
なめす方法は様々であり、特に決まってはいないが、どちらが先か後かなど、様々な手法により独特の質感や効果を得ることができるなめしです。
タンニンなめしやクロムなめしなどの処理方法によって、革の表情や触り心地、質感が異なります。
この『なめし』を行った革から、さらに仕上げの作業が必要になります。
仕上げの作業もとても重要な工程となりますが、こちらはまた次回の話題としたいと思います。
『革』は知れば知るほどとても面白いです。
『革』の特徴を知ることができれば、見方も変わり、さらに『革』への愛着が沸くと思います。
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